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I don't know how many times I have been asked about a plan for this table. It has been a few. As I reported a few years back, the table is based on one found in a book called How to Make Classic American Furniture, which was written in 1986 by James Clapper. I am sure the book is out of print so, after the most recent email about the plan, I decided to write one up. I searched my bookshelves for that book because I was very concerned about copyright violation. As it turns out, there is no such table in that book but rather my table was loosely based on a combination of a drop leaf dining table and a bench that are both found in that book. In fact, even the joinery is completely different. The only thing even close is the leg profile but that too is not identical. Thus, we can say that this plan was inspired by Mr. Clapper, yet I feel very confident that the plan itself is my own. So, here it is.
This table is very simple and made out of only 8 parts, not including the dowels I used to hold mine together. I should point out right away that this table was sized to meet my needs. It can be very easily customized to suit yours. Mr. Clapper's table was oval but mine is rectangular and you are free to change the top to any size or shape that suits you. For example, I dowelled the entire table together, however, you may decide to use screws. Keeping all this in mind, this is a full plan, but does not include every minute detail. The information included in this article will reveal how I made my table but, as I said, you can make any change you need to so you can fit the table to your house and your array of tools.
Let's start with a cutting list:
- 1 glued up pine project panel 46" x 20" x 3/4" thick
- 2 pieces of 2x12 framing lumber that are 15 and a half inches long
- 2 pieces of 2x4 that are 16 inches long
- 1 piece of 1x4 that is 40 inches long
- 2 pieces of scrap that are 3/4" square by 4 " long
That's all there is. Now, I did use framing lumber and scraps but, I stress, I used the nicest pieces I could find. One of the good things about 2x12 floor joist lumber is that, in order to get a piece that size, it has to be nice wood. It doesn't matter if you mix and match spruce and pine. They look very similar when finished.
The 46" by 20" project panel I used was available at my lumber yard already glued up. As I write this, it is 2009 yet I built the table around 1987. Back then, I found lots of this stuff around. Now, I glue up my own panels and you probably will want to as well. Besides, I don't even know if you can buy that kind of glued up panel anymore.
While we are on the topic of lumber, if I were to build one of these again, I would use hardwood. This, again, is something you may wish to do. This table is so easy to build you can change anything you like.
I started by cutting out the legs with the pattern you can find by clicking this link. It is a half pattern so you have to flip it over to do the other side. Although similar to the Clapper design, I changed it somewhat to suit the shortened leg assembly of this table. Make a full size pattern by taping together pieces of copier paper to get a sheet that is five and three quarters of an inch wide by sixteen inches tall. Carefully lay out one inch squares with a ruler so that they match the pattern. Then, square by square, trace out the curve of the full size pattern so that each square matches what you see on my pattern. Using carbon paper (that's what I use but it is hard to find anymore), trace it on to both the 15 1/2" pieces of 2x12. Cut them out using whatever tool you have at hand. I used a jigsaw originally. Drill a hole where the mortise hole is supposed to be, then cut out the mortise hole (2 1/2" tall by 3/4" wide) using a jigsaw - or whatever you have. You may want to clamp a board under the leg when you do this to prevent tearout. I found taping the legs together helped to keep the two identical during the smoothing process, but you can do this however you wish. At the time, I used a Dremel and a file. Now, I would use files, rasps, spokeshaves and cabinet scrapers. Don't underestimate the power of a good rasp and file. These are the most ignored tools in the woodshop, yet they are the most efficient when shaping parts.
Next I made the feet. Each foot is made of a 16" piece of 2x4 framing lumber. When I built mine, I just rounded the top of the board over with a 3/8" rounding over bit. You could add a bit more detail to it by shaping the top like the one in this drawing, but it is not strictly necessary. One thing I did not do, but I would strongly recommend, is to relieve the underside of the foot so that each foot sits on a pad on either end and there is clearance underneath the centre of the foot. Click here to see a diagram of what I mean. This could be done in any number of ways but I would probably bandsaw it out, plane the bottom of the cut, and file the rounded bits at the end.
Before moving to the stretcher, I attached the feet to the legs. I drilled two 1/2" holes 3/4" deep for dowels in the bottom of the leg. Then I set the foot down on a flat surface, placed dowel marking pins in the holes in the leg, then pressed the leg on to the foot, making sure to keep it in the location I wanted it after assembly. The dowel marking pins leave indentations on the foot to tell you where to drill. Then, drill matching 1/2" holes, 3/4" deep, in the foot. Glue and dowel the foot and leg together with 1 1/2" dowels that are 1/2" in diameter.
The stretcher is a piece of 1x4 (which is actually 3/4" thick by 3 1/2" wide). It must be 40" long but needs notches cut into the ends to make it fit into the leg mortise, but not slide through. Click here to look at a diagram that explains it better than I can with words alone. Each end will need a 3/4" square hole for the pin that holds the joint together - no fasteners. Again, see the diagram. When I built mine, I used a circular saw to cut the notches and a jigsaw to cut the square holes. Whatever you have will be fine - no two woodworkers have the same types of tools.
After you have this cut, make the two pins that hold the joints fast. Remember they have to be 3/4" by 3/4" square, and 4" long. I would suggest you make them just a hair oversized. You want a snug fit. If they don't fit at all, you can always plane a shaving off (or sand it) so that it fits snugly. If the pin is too loose, you will have to start the pins over.
The next step is to get the top ready. It needs to be cut to size and sanded - at least on the underside. (In fact, you will be so close to done at this point that you should sand all the hard to reach spots.) Any profile you wish to rout could be done now, or left until later.
At this point, you will need to drill two 1/2" holes 3/4" deep for dowels in the top of each leg. Then lay the top right side up on a blanket or other soft surface (I use an old moving blanket) and assemble the two legs with the stretcher, pinning the ends to hold it tight, upside down and on top of the table top. Move the leg assembly around until it is centered appropriately, then mark the location where the legs meet the top. Doing one end at a time, gently lift the leg and insert the dowel marking pins, relocate the leg according to your marks, then press down to leave indentations where to drill for your dowels.
I didn't make a mistake in that last paragraph. The dowels go right through the top. If you mark the underside, you risk not being able to take out the pencil marks when you sand as they could be partially hidden under the leg and impossible to reach - yes I'm fussy. Besides, you can sand the marks out of the top easily after the assembly is complete. Also, when you drill through the top, it is best to start on the exposed side so, if there is any tearout, it is hidden underneath on the underside of the table top.
When both legs are marked, remove the leg assembly and place it on the floor. Place a backing board under the top, then drill through it, with a half inch bit, for the dowels. Once this is done, you can glue and dowel the top to the leg assembly, rout any edge around the top if you haven't already done so, sand, and finish.
The trestle coffee table was a very simple table to build and I have been using mine for over twenty years now. If I were to do it again, as I said, I would use hardwood. I used 1 1/2" thick material for the legs because it was readily available and inexpensive in comparison to hardwood. It wasn't for strength. Still, I would use something thicker than ¾" as it gives the table a strong, stable appearance. If you use different wood, just make sure that the foot is wider than the leg is thick or your proportions will be off.
I hope you enjoy this plan. I had fun reminiscing about this old table, however, I will now shut up about it. This is the third article I have written on the subject. Who knew it would create such a stir. Good luck and happy woodworking!
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