|
Back to the Tool Case project page.
So many times I have received email asking for plans or dimensions for this tool case that I finally caved in and drew some up. First, there are a couple caveats. We recently were flooded out and I am awaiting the replacement of my scanner, so I took digital pictures of the drawings. They quality isn't as good as I would have liked. (If you print the pictures, the result will be better if you use a photo printing program - when printed from Internet Explorer, the printer cuts off the right side.) The second fact you should be aware of before rushing out to the lumber yard is that I haven't completely verified all the measurements. Double check everything. You can never know a plan unless you have built it once, and this one was drawn up after the fact. The external measurements are correct.
I made 6 drawings outlining the procedure for making the case. I have not included plans, instructions, or details of making and fitting the drawers. I wouldn't want anyone to make theirs the way I did. I suggest you look over these plans and decide how many and what size of drawers you need, then alter the case to fit them. Build the case, then build and fit the drawers.
Drawing Number 1:
The first drawing gives an overall view of the tool case in the closed position, including the exterior dimensions.
Drawing Number 2:
Drawing 2 is also an overview but it shows the case in the open position.
Drawing Number 3:
Relax; it's not as bad as it looks. This was my attempt at an exploded view showing most of the parts and details of the joinery. The tool case is made of ½" birch plywood so all rabbets and dadoes are ½" wide and ¼" deep. Check the measurements before milling the joints as I could have been incorrect on the diagram. Note that the piece in the center of the diagram must be cut twice - one for the bottom of the tool tray in the upper compartment and one for the divider between the drawers. I also have a vertical divider between the left and right drawers but, if I were to do it again, I would omit this and use some kind of drawer runner system.
Drawing Number 4:
The next drawing shows the plywood portions of the case after assembly, along with details of the front piece (which was missing from diagram 3). Note that the front piece that makes the front of the tool tray is missing. There are more details of the tool tray front in the next diagram.
Drawing Number 5:
The hinged, folding top is not made separately. Once the case has been cut and glued together, it is cut out of the case using a table saw and a hand saw. Drawing 5 shows the two step procedure for ripping off the folding top. Your table saw will not completely cut the top off so, after performing these two steps, you will have to finish the cuts using a hand saw. While I have not tried it, the same results should be possible with a circular saw.
Drawing Number 6:
When I built my case, the front piece to the tool tray was flimsy. I found that it bent in and out and I was afraid of ruining or losing tools. To combat this, I made a small L-bracket out of some oak and fastened it to the back side of the tray front and the bottom of the tray. This picture gives some details. There are many ways around this problem but this is what I did.
There you have it. You will need a piano hinge, or some other kind of hinge for the top. The rest of my hardware was all solid brass or brass plated. I used corners to protect the case from wear, 4 knobs, and 2 heavy duty handles. The entire case was constructed with nails and glue. I finished it with paste wax.
You know which tools you want in your case. The attachments and hangers must be customized for the tools that will be stored so I haven't included any specific details. I will add that I used no fasteners for my dividers and hangers. They were set in place with glue only.
Changes I would make?
The drawers can fall out when you carry the case. Several fixes come to mind. You could put a strap around it, add locks or toggles, or have a flip up cover for the drawers like you find on those machinists tool chests. I would opt for the latter. I don't like how I joined the drawers, but you are free to do as you like. If you are planning on using it to carry to the job site, you will find it is cumbersome and heavy. I have since started using tool bags for transporting tools, but the tool case is still a great addition to the shop. Aside from finding a way to keep the drawers from falling out, if I were transporting tools I would add a shoulder strap.
Back to the Tool Case project page.
|
