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Carving tools are very expensive. For exactly that reason, I’m only reviewing those tools I use regularly – the ones I have in my collection right now. I can’t afford to go out and buy an assortment of gouges of other brands just for this article, but if you’d like to send me some I’d be happy to use them and tell you all about it (big grin). I’m also not going to waste my time, or yours, blathering on about differences in prices. I think that’s counterproductive, especially if you’ve already made up your mind on your budget. Let’s face it, I have no idea what your budget is. I can tell you, however, that mine is quite low, but I try to buy the best so I only have to cry once.
If you are interested in a brand I haven’t discussed, well you’re out of luck – for now anyway. Nevertheless, keep in mind that I do revamp these pages from time to time and I am committed to keeping this site current. It’s part of the hobby, if you will. As I acquire more and more carving tools I will add them to the list. My criteria, however, are not based on any form of scientific algorithm. I admit that my comments may seem very subjective but I can assure you that all the statements expressed herein were made after I spent many hours of carving and sharpening time with the tool. That having been said, let’s "git to the rat killin".
My comments are based on extensive use and sharpening of the tool. To keep the sharpening issue in perspective, the use/sharpening cycle comparisons were made using a generic sign carving project with around 15 hours of carving. In other words, if one tool needed less sharpening than another, I knew this based on the number of times I went to the stones per project. Every gouge is different so all I can say with certainty is whether it took a great deal of effort to keep the tool sharp, or very little effort. And, I can tell you how well the tool did it’s job. I have placed some separation between types as you will see. I did this because straight gouges and V-tools are very different animals. I have no fancy charts to offer and I have very few photos – it’s hard to take a picture when you’re carving. So, following is a list of the tools I have tried with links to a description of each. I hope it helps you out.
Table of Contents
- Henry Taylor
- Pfeil
- Robert Sorby
- Veritas
- Conclusions
Henry Taylor
Straight Gouges
The first thing you notice about the Henry Taylor tools I bought from Lee Valley is the fit and finish. The handle is nicely rounded and smooth but the tool itself is rough, blackened and unsightly. When I first opened the parcel it came in (through the mail), I was horrified. (I have since seen some Henry Taylor carving tools on display at the Woodcraft store in New Castle, Delaware, and they were much cleaner. An overall change since I bought mine?) The unsightly tool looked as though it would be a bear to sharpen.
Before sharpening I tried it out on a piece of scrap and it actually cut surprisingly well. I did hone it for use before turning it loose on a project. In use I found it to work well, the large round handle comfortable in my hand. The one gouge I have is quite wide and it still slid nicely through the wood fibers. Every so often I like to strop my gouge and this tool seemed to take little stropping to make a noticeable difference. Over the course of a project I only had to hone on waterstones once, in addition of course to the initial honing.
The wide flat bevel sat well on the stones and the gouge sharpened quickly leaving a nice flat gray slurry on the stone. Over all it is a very easy tool to sharpen, and aside from its Medieval appearance, I do believe it is made of good quality steel.
It is a truly ugly tool but it does its job well and every project I rely on it. On a scale of 1 to 10 I would have to give it a 7.
V-Tools
Garbage. Like the straight gouge I do believe this tool is made of quality steel despite its outward appearance. This V-tool is very rough, however, and came to me in a state that was completely unworkable. The bevel grind was so poorly done that this tool has never actually seen use in my shop. I have been playing with it over the last year and a half trying to get it into a workable condition and it has required complete regrinding. The tool still cuts poorly.
Please note here that, while I can grind chisels and plane cutters with the best of them, I have much less experience with carving tools. This particular tool has been a thorn in my side ever since I purchased it and I would recommend to anyone to stay well away from Henry Taylor V-tools – especially if you are ordering through the mail. If I had been working in the stock room when shipping this tool, I would never have sent it. If all the V-tools were like this (and it wouldn’t surprise me as it looked like their standard grind) I would recommend to my boss that we not carry them anymore.
On the upside, the tool grinds nicely and does not lose temper quickly (as my Marples chisels will if you let them). However, on a scale of 1 to 10, 1 being the worst, this tool gets 0.5.
Pfeil
Straight Gouges
I added this section so it would be here when I am ready to comment. I have only had these gouges for a couple of weeks so I am not yet ready to comment but I can say that I was somewhat disappointed with the polish on the steel, as I had been told that they were so highly polished. The handles are very rough but nicely proportioned and a good size. These are minor points and only first impressions. They were sharp right out of the package just like I had been told.
V-Tools
Again, I don’t have all my facts in place but this V-tool, bought to help out because of the trouble I have had with my Henry Taylor V-tool, was sharp as a razor right out of the package. I think all it will need is a bit of stropping and I will be good to go.
Robert Sorby
Straight Gouges
I like my Robert Sorby Gouges. The handles are well proportioned and comfortable, and they hit well with my mallet. By that I mean that the transfer of force is better than with my Henry Taylor tools. The gouges were sharp right out of the store and I started using them without even a stropping. The steel is highly polished and the tools have a very nice fit and finish.
These gouges take well to the strop but are not the easiest to sharpen. I’m not sure why, but they always take me longer to get a good edge on them. That’s really the only thing I don’t like. In use they are comfortable to hold and remove material easily. They require sharpening more often than my other tools (3 to 4 trips to the stones for honing were required on an average project) so they require more maintenance.
Overall, you wouldn’t have wasted your money if you purchased Robert Sorby carving tools. As much as I have used and enjoyed using mine, I can’t help but feel as though there must be something better. They are a good, sturdy tool, but I think they fall short of being great. I’d have to give them a 6 on a scale of 10.
Veritas
Palm Tools
These are my favorite tools. I know they carve easier because they are smaller and are pushing less wood, but these little tools are a real life saver. For anyone getting into carving I would suggest not overlooking a little set like mine. My set of 6 tools gives me a variety of different gouges that I use extensively for touch up work on larger carving projects. Of course you can use them for smaller work too.
The fit and finish on these is quite good. The steel comes clean and well polished, and honed so that the edges are really ready to use right out of the box. There is a kind of cheesy color to the wooden handles but you aren’t looking at them when they are nestled in the palm of your hand while carving.
These tools are very comfortable to use. They are well designed (sometimes I think some gouges are ground with too little angle to them) and slice the wood fibers neatly. A little stropping here and there keeps them fresh.
Sharpening these little tools couldn’t be easier. They hone very well and the edge builds quickly. I find that these tools never need sharpening except between projects so they hold their edges better than all my other carving tools. I do use them extensively, as much or more than any other gouge, and they keep their edge remarkably well. This is why I keep thinking I haven’t found the best brand of regular sized carving tools yet. I can’t say enough about these little tools. They really are a must have for any carver. On a scale of 1 to 10 I’d have to give them a 9 and I am going out of my way to be really critical on that account.
Conclusions
What would I buy if I had to do it over? Honestly, I haven’t found a need yet for a lot of the types of tools out there, but I have only been carving for four or five years. You do need a small assortment of straight gouges: narrow and wide, some with more curvature, some with less. I think that four straight gouges, two narrow, two wide, two fairly flat, and two with much more curvature, would do the trick. If I were to suggest a basic tool kit, I would say two #3 straight gouges, a 10mm and a 25mm, and two #7 gouges, again a 10mm and a 25mm, would get most jobs done. (#3 and #7 refer to the amount of smile that the gouge has – the higher the number the bigger the smile.) I also think you have to have a V-tool. I would not, under any circumstances, be without my set of 6 palm tools either. Add that together and that would be my recommendation for a basic kit.
As far as brands go, I can’t say enough about my Veritas palm carving set from Lee Valley. Other brands have them too but I can only recommend what I have had experience with. Personally, I will never buy another Henry Taylor tool. Sorry Henry. As far as that I cannot really recommend a favorite brand at this point. I will say that based on very little experience with the Pfeil tools, I think I will like them better than the Robert Sorby gouges – with the exception of the handles which I think are better on the Sorby tools. I will keep you posted on my progress. However, I still want to try Stubai and Two Cherries carving tools. Their proponents are just as enthusiastic as the Pfeil camp. Thus, I look forward to adding to this article.
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