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A shoulder plane is the handiest tool I have ever used and once you’ve tried it there is no question as to its utility in the woodshop. Whether trimming a tenon to fit or skimming a little wood from a rabbet to make a flush fit, this is the tool you should be reaching for. I use mine for many little jobs where you just need to trim a little off as a good shoulder plane should cut wood like it was butter and leave a perfectly flat surface.
When trimming and tuning the shoulders or cheeks of a tenon, you are putting this plane to its best use. A good shoulder plane should have a flat, straight sole perfectly square to its sides. That way, you can lay the plane on its side on the cheek of a tenon and trim the shoulder leaving a perfect surface at exactly 90 degrees to the cheek. A tall order? Not really, if you are willing to spend either the time or money to acquire a proper tool for the job.
My love affair with this type of plane is rather recent and started with my Lie-Nielsen 073 Large shoulder plane. It was a gift from a friend of mine (I just thought I would stick that little jab in there right off) and at $225, he is a pretty good friend. The plane is eight inches in length and has a 1¼ inch blade. Weighing in at four pounds, it is a tool to be reckoned with. From the fine adjustment for the mouth to the large bronze lever, it is a sight to behold. The machining is top notch and everything is flat, straight, and square. In short, it is quite beautiful.
My friend touched up the blade on his Tormek before presenting me with this beauty and it has required only light honing since, despite tuning numerous tenons (and being used on many little tasks not normally in the purview of this plane). The blade is so sharp it can slice through any hardwood producing wispy, thin shavings or large, one piece curls depending on how deep you set the blade.
The machining is perfectly accurate so, provided you keep the side flat against your reference edge, the planed surface will be precisely perpendicular. The quality of this tool also provides for smooth, accurate adjustments without play.
This plane is truly in its element when working on larger tenons, or the half-lap dovetails I used on a recent warping board project. It is, however, limited when working on smaller items, like tenons for a small door. Small work does not have the surface area to support a tool of this magnitude and, unless you have a very strong hand and forearm, it will be difficult for you to keep the plane square.
Another problem with this plane is the weight. Even on larger rabbets you can still have problems keeping the plane in the rabbet. If the rabbet is under ¾ of an inch, a smaller plane would perform more accurately.
This is a very hefty and solid tool and prolonged use can be very hard on your muscles. Despite my efforts to keep it under control, my carpal tunnel acts up from time to time. This plane only serves to exacerbate it, especially on small projects. Even with repeated attempts to find a new and innovative way to hold or support it, the Lie-Nielsen 073 can take its toll on my wrist. However, this is not as big a problem on large work.
After having said all that, please don’t think I’m suggesting you avoid this tool. This is a fine tool – they don’t come any better. However, if you only buy one shoulder plane, I wouldn’t buy this one unless your projects are generally large. For most woodworkers, a smaller plane would be a better choice and much more versatile.
Lie-Nielsen does make a smaller shoulder plane but it is a wood core plane and not solid iron. My preference for a shoulder plane is a solid iron plane so that I don’t have to worry that changes in humidity might affect how perpendicular the side is in relation to the sole. If you are making a lot of larger mortise and tenon joints on a regular basis, then the Lie-Nielsen 073 is the shoulder plane for you. I highly recommend it, if you have the right work for it to perform.
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